Tuesday, June 24, 2008

We saw the "Southern Cross" last night...

Another cruiser pointed out that we could see the Southern Cross in the sky last night. So, we all went down to the dock and looked up into the night sky together.

Now, I have Crosby Stills and Nash playing over and over and over in my head.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Life is good in El Salvador

We're not in Mexico Anymore, Toto...

Samadhi V rests peacefully on her mooring as the tidal current gently pushes past. We are located in a massive estuary, surrounded by lush forests of mangroves. Moving out from the Mangrove forest, there are several volcanoes in the perimeter of our view, covered in dense tropical jungle. We are surrounded by wildlife: Brightly colored birds fly past, and at night, you can hear the shrieks of wild spider monkeys. The water teems with tiny fish as well as barracuda and snapper. There are alligators in the estuary, but we haven't seen any of them yet. Not to worry, we have been assured by everyone we speak with here that the alligators have no interest in people.

It's warm here--not surprising. The temperature hovers around 85 degrees during the day with slightly cooler temps at night. The water is currently 88 degrees here in the estuary.  Very occasionally a brief thunderstorm runs past, bringing 30 minutes of cooling rain before the calm again prevails. Half an hour later, everything is dry again as if the rain had never been here.

The Barillas Marina Club is like a resort. While moored here, we have full access to all of the facilities of the club. The boys have really been enjoying the pool, and I am writing this from the open air clubhouse. The staff here at Barillas have gone out of their way to make us feel welcome, catering to all of our needs and making sure we are comfortable and well taken care of. Security is high. Water-borne patrols cruise the mooring area day and night, and armed men guard at the gate on land.

We are in a beautiful place, but certainly the people of El Salvador are what makes this land special. Everywhere we go, we are greeted warmly with a smile and welcomed graciously. Unlike some of the places we visited in Mexico, tourism hasn't poisoned this region. No cruise ships pause here to disgorge masses of consumers. There are no mega resort developments, no roaming vendors constantly hawking trinkets. Local fisherman paddle past in dugout canoes, still fishing in the same way that people have for eons. When you get here you know that this place is real.

We had the opportunity to visit with wild Spider Monkeys that inhabit the surrounding jungle. One monkey troop has learned to answer to the call of the local people offering bananas! With one of the marina staff as our guide, we walked a short distance (less than a mile) into the jungle behind the marina. Soon we came upon a small series of simple huts where a family lived, this was the house of Miguel. Miguel knows each monkey by name, and it was immediately apparent that they know him! What followed was over an hour of magic, as we fed and played with the monkeys that descended from the trees around us. The spider monkeys were amazingly gentle, and almost caressing in their touch. The monkeys especially delight in dropping down from a convenient tree to steal your hat! One monkey tried to steal Kelly's hair, but was unsuccessful.

We'll be pausing in our cruise here to return to the States for July. After Kelly's birthday in August, we plan to explore inland and take advantage of the wealth of cultural and natural wonders offered by this diverse region. It's hard to imagine a richer way to enrich the boys' curriculum than letting them experience first-hand what most only learn about from books.

Friday, June 20, 2008

We made it to El Salvador!

Our passage South from Mexico was uneventful, with pleasant weather but not much in the way of wind. We arrived off of the bar entrance to Barillas Marina Club this morning at around 4am. We stood offshore until the pilot boat came out to meet us at around 8. After watching a wonderful sunrise and having a relaxing breakfast it was time to challenge the bar. The pilot expertly led us between breakers on both sides, powered by the significant South swell we have been experiencing. Samadhi hit 16 knots surfing on one wave, throwing up a huge wall of spray from each side of the hull! Surfing on a 60,000lb surfboard is certainly a rush!

We are tired, and happy to be sleeping tonight at a snug little mooring in an estuary on the Pacific Coast of El Salvador. We're so glad to be here!

More soon!

Monday, June 16, 2008

In Bahía de Huatulco... leaving for Puerto Madero

We are here for a few hours only. Just long enough to siphon a few gallons of dead dinosaur juice into the starboard tank and wrap up our Mexican immigration/customs paperwork. We are "Checking Out" of Mexico, meaning that we don't plan on stepping ashore until we are in El Salvador. We will top off our fuel tanks one more time in Puerto Madero even if we don't need much fuel as Mexican diesel is a bargain at about $2.40 per gallon.

The weather looks good for our 300 mile passage across the Gulf of Tehuntepec. Hopefully we will avoid any experience with a Tehuntepecer! June is quiet season on the Gulf, so the odds are we will have a smooth passage.

We are not likely to have internet connectivity until we arrive in El Salvador. We will update you once we arrive!

Friday, June 13, 2008

Arrived in Acapulco!

Approaching Acapulco
Approaching Acapulco

After a slow passage, we're tied up at the fuel dock at El Nuevo Club de Yates de Acapulco. We're not sure where we'll berth but we hope to stay here for a day or two for provisioning and bottom cleaning. Our next stop will probably be Bahía de Huatulco. We'll let you know when we're underway again.


Love,

Kelly, Phillip, Alexander, and Nicholas

Boca Chica - Acapulco
Boca Chica - Acapulco

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Acapulco, here we come!

Ahoy mateys!

The weather's taken a turn for the better. We're fueled up and ready to leave the shelter of Las Hadas. Our passage is around 350 miles to Acapulco. We should be there in three days at the outside, probably less.

Until then!

Kelly, Phillip, Alexander, and Nicholas

Monday, June 9, 2008

Next!

We received a shiny new milled bronze clutch lower today and, after not a little work by Phillip, got the beast put back together. The thing of it is, it still won't raise the hook.

Remember what cruising is really about: "Fixing your boat in exotic places".

Rubin, dock master extraordinaire, is going to put in calls to help us find a local shop that can help us troubleshoot further. We should know more after that. At least we won't have to wait for any more shipments from New Zealand!

While we're here, we're making the best of it. Naturally, the boys are taking advantage of our decent Internet access and using it to enrich their Calvert studies. We've been enjoying the lovely beach at Las Hadas and taking occasional trips over the hill for provisioning. Today, while shopping, we took the opportunity to introduce the boys to Dance Dance Revolution.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Update from Alexander!

Well, I guess this is easier than making a PowerPoint presentation on Madagascar... Lately, I have been working on a presentation about Madagascar with everything from the climate to the land usage to the diet of the people there. It's my third PowerPoint presentation. I've already done ten pages, and that's only half of it!

Yesterday, I completed my latest work of writing, "The Evil Tea Kettle". I think that "The Evil Tea Kettle" was a rare instance where I didn't have to revise my writing much, as I have done more and more of as I write other compositions.

I haven't been fishing nearly as much as Nicholas, and I've only caught one bottom-feeder, though it was just as big as Nicholas's largest one. When we were back in La Cruz, after an unsuccessful fishing trip on the rocks with one of the locals, we walked back to the boat with him, and he took out a large magazine and four lures to divide among me and Nicholas. Unfortunately, after another unsuccessful time fishing off Samadhi here at Las Hadas, I discovered that one of the eyes of my jig was gone.

I finally finished all the Lord of the Rings books, and just today started on Invasion of the Body Snatchers, which Kelly says is awesome. I don't know why, but the third book of The Lord of the Rings just seems really different from all the others.

When we were in Barra de Navidad, we rode for a really long time in the dinghy to get to this big resort, The Grand Bay. It had three mammoth pools, the highest of which had a fast water slide going from it to the next. Anther pool had a second water slide, but it seemed to be targeted towards babies, as it was almost impossible to go fast on. On the fun slide, Nicholas and I invented many wacky ways to go down, like imitating Gandhi or making your own aquarium as you slid down. Even though I don't look very happy in the picture, I'm really having fun.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Update from Nicholas!

I'm finally done with my first two compositions of this Unit of Calvert. In the middle, since we've been in Manzanillo, I've caught four bottom feeders with a hint of a puffer fish being hooked, along with a school of colorful stick fish being satisfied with my lure.

While we were in Tenacatita and Barra de Navidad, I caught innumerable minnow-like fish and three very fat brownish fish that I don't know the name of.

I hope I catch more fish!

... and now I am finally sucked in on a book, The Summer Tree, the first of the Fionavar Tapestry. The book is very unusual in some places. I'm still sucked in!

Now, back to my DS!

Monday, June 2, 2008

Spending a few extra days in Manzanillo

The plan was to stop outside of Las Hadas for a day or so and then head over to the port for fuel and checking in/out before anchoring in Bahía de Santiago for a day. Thence, we would undertake our longest leg until Tehuantepec, 190 miles along the coast from Manzanillo to Acapulco. Unfortunately, when we went to raise the anchor, Samadhi let us know that she had different plans.

The anchor windlass is definitely roto. Naturally, our venerable windlass is no longer sold new, so we get to import the new bits from the manufacturer's stock in New Zealand. We found this all out just as their business day was beginning, and Grant was chipper and happy to help.

Thankfully, it looks like they've got everything on hand. Now we just have to figure out how to get it into the country without getting mired in the customs paperwork. Our temporary import permit only works as long as we meet any given package at the airport where it is to clear customs.

We could sail without the windlass. It is possible to raise the anchor using the capstan alone or one of our large primary winches. This is great to know that in a pinch we could get the hook up. Still, we have decided to err on the side of safety and repair the windlass before departing.

We should know more tonight when we hear back from Grant. Then the fun really starts...