Sunday, December 28, 2008

Boys arrive, and Samadhi finds a deeper berth

Samadhi @ Costa Rica Yacht Club (by S0Cal)

We spent the day today in San Jose, Costa Rica picking up Alexander and Nicholas from the airport. Samadhi V had her first AM low tide in the deeper berth and fared much, much better than our previous location (phew!).

Everyone is happy here!

Saturday, December 27, 2008

More water please!

We discovered this morning that Samadhi V was unhappy about where we moored :(

We had been told that there wasn't a lot of water at CRYC and that sailboats sometimes tilted slightly at severe low tides. Our friend Wayne arrived here ahead of us aboard S/V Learnativity and reported no issues whatsoever. When we arrived we were directed to moor in a much different location than Wayne. This turned out to not be the best place for Samadhi.


Costa Rica Yacht Club manager Carlos was quick put things right. He had us moved to a deeper mooring as soon as the tide was back up. No doubt we will remember this experience- 20 degrees of heel is no way to live in port!

Not to worry, no harm was done to Samadhi or to us. The bottom is soft mud here and we simply floated free once the tide came back in.

Friday, December 26, 2008

Moored at Costa Rica Yacht Club, Puntarenas

After a truly uneventful passage, we've arrived safely at the Costa Rica Yacht Club in Puntarenas. I landed a decent-sized jurel toro, but we threw it back. There's plenty of fish in the freezer!



Our course took us between the Nicoya Peninsula and the Islands of Tortugas and Negritos. They were so beautiful. We look forward to visiting them some time soon!

Preparing to sail to the Costa Rica Yacht Club

We will get underway in a couple of hours for the Costa Rica Yacht Club in Puntarenas. It's only a short 27 mile passage across the Gulf of Nicoya. We have had a delightful time here in Playa Tambor, and look forward to returning with the boys! We enjoyed wonderful Christmas Eve dinner ashore at the Hotel Tambor Tropical with friends Bernd & Renate from S/V Volle Pulle (a Tayana 42, also from Barillas!). We have enjoyed walking on the beach, which goes for miles and miles (thankfully sans tourists).

Until we return...


Thursday, December 25, 2008

Merry Christmas!



Christmas is here, and we find ourselves anchored in Playa Tambor, Costa Rica. Things are a bit different aboard Samadhi V compared to a traditional Christmas in the US. I thought I would outline them for those of you "back home".
  • Replace "White Christmas" with white sand beaches.
  • Replace Christmas carolers with howler monkeys. (There are remarkable similarities!)
  • Replace the roast goose with a fresh caught Mahi Mahi to grill.
  • Replace the Christmas tree with a palm tree, and the ornaments with coconuts.
  • Replace the Christmas lights with phosphorescent ocean water that lights up at night and a sky that is absolutely white with stars.
  • Replace eggnog with a Piña Colada.
  • Replace skiing or sledding with wakeboarding.
  • Replace the roaring fire with a blowing fan. (It's 85 degrees!)
However, some things are still the same. We are thinking of and missing our family and friends and wishing that all of you could be here with us to experience this magical place and time.

Warmest Holiday Wishes,
Kelly & Phil

Tuesday, December 23, 2008

Arrived at Bahia Ballena (aka Playa Tambor)

We're anchored in the NE corner of Bahia Ballena, off of a lovely white sand beach with palm trees. After a brief bout of sailing for an hour or so this morning, we motored the remainder with a slightly favorable current. The weather was absolutely clement, and we saw few other vessels. The total time underway was 8.5 hours.

The main entertainment of the morning was an ever-growing flock of boobies who continually circled the boat and dove on the lures. We counted at least ten at one point. This went on for hours.

Just after we rounded the cape at the southern end of the Nicoya Peninsula, the clicker in one of our reels went off. This time was different than the two previous (a couple of little bonito), and it was clear that we were dealing with a very different class of fish. Just as Kelly took the rod, we saw a beautiful bull dorado clear the water behind the boat. He put up a good fight, but thanks to the gaff which we purchased in Playa del Coco, Phil was able to boat him without too much of a struggle.
Kelly attempted to hold him up for a photo, but she couldn't lift the fish! He definitely weighed well in excess of 50 pounds.

Altogether it took about two hours to land the mahi mahi and process him. Our scale was insufficient to the task of weighing even one of the fillets. We figure we'll be in fish for at least a month. For the first time, our freezer is FULL.

While we were underway, Kelly made another delicious pineapple upside down cake with the remainder of our fresh pineapple before the excitement of the dorado. We're planning on a celebratory piece while we wait for the ceviche to "cook".

Monday, December 22, 2008

On the hook at Bahia Samara

We've anchored for the night in Bahia Samara, one bay north of Bahia Carrillo. We decided to change destination because this looked like a more secure anchorage with a little island to protect us from the swells. There doesn't appear to be any WiFi access here. We're not sure yet if we'll be leaving tomorrow or the next day for Puntarenas.


leaving for Bahía Carrillo

We're off to Bahía Carrillo about 65 miles south from Playa Hermosa.
The passage shouldn't take more than a day.

Playa Hermosa has been an idyllic port. Leaving is not easy!
Regardless, it's time to continue south.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

At anchor in Playa Hermosa


Just a quick note to let you know we anchored in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica on the Nicoya Peninsula just before lunch today. We plan to be here or at Playa del Coco for a few days before heading further south.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Hola de Costa Rica


We're happily anchored inside beautiful Bahia Santa Elena in Northern Costa Rica. It was an uneventful overnight passage here, even though the papagayo winds started blowing on our second day out. S/V Hooligan and S/V Carpe Vita are here with us.

Our current plan is to leave here in a couple of days for El Coco. There's a possibility that we may stop at Key Point and the Bat Islands on the way though.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

Arrived at Isla de Meanguera

We are safely anchored at Isla de Meanguera. The trip down from Barillas was very smooth, and Samadhi V performed flawlessly. Our plan is to cook dinner and get some rest and explore the island a bit tomorrow.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

We're off!

Up at 3:45 in the morning in preparation for a 5:00am departure from Barillas. Kelly brewed coffee while I took care of last minute tasks before we got underway. Everything went smoothly. Our pilot boat arrived at 5:00 sharp, and we were off down the channel in the darkness. We headed out into the Pacific once more, bound for points South just as the sun was rising.

We don't enjoy getting up early, but we couldn't have asked for a nicer day!

Now we are off to the Gulf of Fonseca and the island of Meanguera.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Bound for Isla de Meanguera

After far too long attached to a mooring ball, we'll be heading out
for open waters tomorrow. Our planned (and guided) departure is set
for 5 a.m. We expect to make it out of Bahía de Jiquilisco by 7 a.m.
and to the anchorage at Isla de Meanguera by evening. There will be
one other boat departing with us (S/V Hooligan), but they're headed
further south to Bahía Santa Elena, Costa Rica.

We plan to stay in the Gulf of Fonseca for a few days before heading
further south. Our first port of call in Costa Rica will be El Coco
(also known as Playa del Coco). Our itinerary is not set beyond the
arrival in Central Costa Rica (probably Puntarenas) by the 27th.

Our Salvadorean phones should work on Meanguera. We will probably have
new cell numbers when we get to Costa Rica.

Cheers,

Kelly and Phil

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Matt and Wendy live! In person! One week only!

Sorry for the late publicity. This event already happened.

Almost a year after we tried to lure them down to sunny México, Matt and Wendy came to visit. We are kicking ourselves for not making it happen sooner or last longer, but hey, who are we to complain? A fabulous time was had by all!

We'll try to report more later (along with writing up something about our Guatemala/Honduras/El Salvador trip). Until then, check out some groovy photos and videos:





Monday, September 22, 2008

After the holiday...

The past two days I have had off because I finished my research report and all my schoolwork... finally!

Yesterday I watched a movie on the all-new Samadhi Theater, a.k.a. a laptop on a box with speakers around the bed.

Today I started out making homemade strawberry yogurt and it really tastes like strawberry yogurt, even though I only started out with the normal, unflavored stuff.

The rest of the day has been a lot of work: hanging up all of this laundry, driving the dinghy back and forth from the dock, putting up more laundry, getting gas for the dinghy, and taking down the laundry. And that was just me alone. The jobs involving laundry were pretty boring, but using the dinghy alone was definitely an adventure!

Sunday, September 21, 2008

Done with our first year of Calvert!

one with 6th grade!
Today is a great day. It marks the end of our first school year in Calvert School. Yay!

Nicholas and Alexander submitted all of their exams the Friday before last. Alexander still had some work on his research report to go though, so he kept at it while Nicholas worked on penmanship and fishing.

one with 6th grade!After weeks of diligent work, Alexander put the finishing touches on his report today, outline, bibliography, and all. His paper is unbelievably well thought out and well organized. I doubt I could have even come close at his age.

Not only that, but he was able to get interviews with five of the leading researchers in the field thanks to the magic of technology. Something like that would have taken months when I was a kid, if I'd even been able to find out their names at all.

We really can't begin to say how grateful we are to everyone at Calvert who helped us. We couldn't have done it without the amazing staff there like Cecilia and Maggie. Most of all we are indebted to the unwavering support of the boys teachers, Jean Soyke and Shannon Frederick. They have been an amazing resource for us. I can only hope we are so lucky again next year!

Friday, September 19, 2008

The hailer works.

When we had the mast off of Samadhi V, we installed new wiring for a loud hailer. The hailer is made up of a marine grade P.A. horn speaker located on the mast about 27 feet above the deck, and a 35-watt amplifier built into our VHF radio. Unfortunately, we lacked a proprietary connector for the radio to hook up the loud hailer speaker, apparently lost during the radio install. Since we didn't have the proper cable, the hailer was left disconnected.

Imagine my surprise while cleaning out a wire raceway when I found the special connector! I don't know how the connector ended up in there, but no matter, I was very happy to have finally found it. I grabbed the heat shrink tubing and soldering equipment. In five minutes, the loud hailer wire was connected.

The next step in the process was a test of the loud hailer... Just how loud is it? Well, before I answer that, let me state that today is International Talk Like a Pirate Day. So I hit the "Hail" button on the radio, keyed the mic, and proceeded to let loose a slew of pirate "Aaaarrgh"s, "matey"s, and other various silly sayings. I couldn't hear much and I wasn't sure that the hailer was working, so I hit the mic button again and announced to the world that "Today is International Talk Like a Pirate Day, AAAaaarrrggghhhh!!!" (emphasis on the arrgghh). Once again I heard very little from above decks, so I sent Kelly to the kids cabin (under the loudspeaker) to see if she could hear. I made a brief click in mic, and Kelly reported back that the speaker was "really REALLY loud!!".

Oops.

Then the VHF came to life. It was Alexander, calling in from his study location in the computer center. Alexander was studying more than 1 mile from us, inside of a concrete building with the A/C going next to him. Alexander reported that he had "heard some sort of pirate speak, probably coming from the pool area". He called on the radio since he thought the pirate speak might have been me calling him on the radio. Kelly and I were rolling on the floor with laughter. It was hard to stop laughing long enough to respond to Alexander.

The hailer works.

The hailer is LOUD.

Remember, it's important to test your safety equipment.

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

fresh, dried herbs?

Just a brief aside about how amazing the food is here.

Semiweekly, a bus from Barillas takes a gaggle of us into Usulután for shopping and various business like haircuts and doctor visits. The main place for grocery shopping is a sprawling open air market in the streets to the east of the town center. Vendors clog both sides selling everything from jocote, pineapple, and green coffee to technicolor chicks, rat poison, and bootleg flicks.

One of my favorite stalls is the herb lady or, as Phillip calls her, the witch doctor. Women, often with their families, come to her in a constant stream asking how to cure a headache or cramps or heatstroke. She puts together a large bag of herbs and explains how to prepare them for treatment. It's remarkable to watch. One morning while waiting to buy some culinary herbs, I spent about 15 minutes translating for the boys. It's really a different world.

The herbs you buy from her are completely different from the sawdust that you buy in the little vials in the supermarket. These are large leaves, still attached to the stalk or stem. To use them in food, I need to get rid of the woody bits and mince them by hand. (We got rid of our spice mill before embarking.) Like many things here, it's a lot more time-consuming than I'm used to from my Silicon Valley life, but the results are worth it. The oregano is so flavorful. I use about a quarter of what I normally would to the same effect. This is the norm, not the exception.

No doubt, there are things we miss, like dry-aged beef, but cooking here is a delightful adventure. If we ever go back, I'm going to be sad to leave it behind.

Saturday, September 6, 2008

El Salvadorean Pizza: Exactly What You Get At Costco

Well, we finally found pizza in El Salvador, and it was at the best place in the country to eat it: Pricesmart. Nicholas complained that I hadn't split the third piece in half, but when I was finished with both pieces he still hadn't finished his first. Then Daddy came over just as Nicholas started to get mad and stopped the fight before it began. "If Alexander hadn't eaten it," he stated humorously, "We would've probably had to throw half a slice of pizza away."

A Little Catch

There are tons of lizards in Barillas, and some run on two legs. I happened to run into one of these two-legged speed-demons which was about two inches long. I decided to uselessly cup my hands around his body to see if I could catch Mr. Mini Speed-Racer. There was wriggling inside my hands so I figured that I had done the impossible. I picked up the tired and striped body of the lizard that had escaped from danger so many times. After I showed it to Alexander, we both set it free into the dangerous world. It ran away faster than a tuna could swim. I hope to find it again someday.

Bye, bye Mom!

Kathy left this morning, and just like that, the boys are back doing Calvert. Oddly enough, today after a week of rain, rain, and more rain, we're back to our normal sunny weather pattern. I'm so sorry that Mom only got to experience the tropical rain!

Mom's flight is scheduled to leave in about an hour. Have a safe flight home. We miss you already!

Thursday, September 4, 2008

Hi Mom!

Sunday before last, while I was chatting with Mom using Skype-to-landline, she asked me to hold for a second. Daddy wanted to talk to her. When she came back on the line she said, "Looks like James can take the trip this week. I can be there on Tuesday!"

Whoo!

After the initial surprise and postponing her arrival by a day, we got things in motion for a whirlwind tour of Guatemala, Honduras (Copán, really), and El Salvador. What an adventure it's been! (Thanks Jorge!)

We're putting photos up in a Flickr group. Please join us!

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

Our first Salvadorean Volcano!

 
Yesterday, Arthur and Susan took us on an adventure up around the back of Volcan de Usulután to Alegría and the top of Volcan de Tecapa. It was amazing. 

We had lunch and wandered around the little town of Alegría. The restaurant Cartagena was in the middle of a coffee plantation, and had quite a variety of animals and plants living there. Lunch was not quite as exceptional as the view. The boys got up close and personal with a sweet little green parrot. We also toured a little hostel on the town square where you can have a bed for $10 a night. Being in coffee country, the town is built on the side of a very steep mountain and the boys enjoyed climbing myriad stairs multiple times. That's one way to burn off some energy!

After exploring the town, we drove up to the crater of the volcano to take a dip in the verdant lagoon in the center. The boys played in the mineral clay while Phil and I explored and got caught in a squall that just didn't know when to quit.

 

We drove back in Arthur and Susan's truck, happy to get back to the warm lowlands only to discover that my mother will be coming to visit tomorrow, and we'll have more exploring in store! Hold onto your hats!

Saturday, August 23, 2008

In love again... with a cutting board

I admit it; I'm completely smitten.

I've been a wooden butting board evangelist since I started using knives. It's been scientifically proven that they're a bad place for bacteria to live and grow. I even got the former owner of the French Laundry to try to convince Phil that wooden cutting boards were the only way to go. He was swayed, but remained unconvinced.

Ever since we hit the Tropics, we've had minor issues with my venerable wooden boards. Some of them are warping, some splitting, some molding. It's generally been rough on the little guys. The hardwood ones that were made to cover the sinks really don't smell so good.

When I came across this little article in NYT Test Kitchen archives, I never dreamt that it would change my tune so quickly and completely. On a whim, I bought an 8" x 8" x 1/2" and a 12" x 18" x 1/2" to bring back to Samadhi with us. "What the heck?" I figured. They're not cheap, but living so far from the States, we only get one shot to buy things every several months or so. I was willing to give the Sani-Tuff boards a shot.

What a difference! The boards are a joy to cut on. Not only that, but they really do heal themselves. The big ones had a huge gash, well into the edge (I think from shipping). It completely disappeared, all by itself over the course of about three weeks. The little cuts from chopping and slicing vanish overnight or within a day or two. They are a cinch to clean. They don't slip on the counters. They don't retain odors or stain.

The only drawback is that the big one is thin, and it warped a tad after being washed in the dishwasher. (You'd have to know Phillip.) Still, it hasn't actually been an issue in use, and if anything, it keeps juices from running off the board. Phillip contends that it warped outside of the dishwasher but has no further explanation.

The warping aside, the performance has been so stellar that I would not hesitate to completely equip my kitchen with them. So save your pennies and hook yourself up!

Monday, August 18, 2008

A Day Spent Touring Bahía de Jiquilisco

Since we've arrived in El Salvador, we've pretty much stuck around Barillas with occasional visits to the department capital (Usulután) and the national capital (San Salvador). This has largely been because we've had plenty to do on the boat to keep us occupied and we just haven't been here that long.
Saturday night, we had some of the other cruisers aboard. We all decided to make Sunday a day of "rest" and go exploring. We would visit some of their favorite haunts around the Bay and get a general lay of the land. They'd introduce us to many of the friends they've made over the last few years and we'd get a more intimate introduction to the locals and their culture. The results were unforgettable.

We took the dinghy and met with some friends of ours about ten to begin our day of bay touring. We started out by stopping at a small fishing village near the mouth of the bay called La Pirraya. This is about 10 miles from our mooring. The family whose palapa we stopped at was absolutely lovely. Their young daughter has been going to a private school in Usulután and learning English thanks to the generosity of some cruisers. They welcomed us with open arms and let us explore their little homestead. The most memorable part was when some of the local boys showed off their pet raccoon. They even made him get up on two legs when Susan from S/V Suvuka asked if it was "macho". Our boys (and the rest of us) just ate it up.

After meeting with the locals and exploring the beach we headed across the mouth of the Bay to the Bahia Sport Club for a feast of a lunch. Our friends Arthur and Susan knew the owners but had yet to visit their fledgling resort. Boy, was it a treat! We had an amazing seafood extravaganza with fresh coconut water to wash it down. The boys preferred hamburgesas con papas fritas and virgin piña coladas. We just sat back and enjoyed Tony and Digna's hospitality. The boys enjoyed playing in the pool and attempting to pet the geese. There was also a litter of kittens to be cavorted with. Nicholas and Alexander had been going through kitty withdrawal, so this was just the thing.

Just when we thought we'd all take cabañas and stay forever, we got a burst of energy and decided to check out the major port on the bay, Puerto El Triunfo. Triunfo is a port city in decline. Most of the fisheries that we once here have moved out. It is clearly only a shadow of what it once was.

There is a small naval installation on the waterfront. With Arthur's help, we gained permission to tie alongside their vessel for protection from the barnacle-encrusted piers as much as from thieves. The sailors were warm and friendly. They even laughed when the boys posed to have their photo taken.From there the boys took a tricycle taxi to the malecon while we all walked alongside. The driver Chiba was the man who helped Arthur and Susan the most when they were trying to resurrect Suvuka. Naturally we invited him to sit with us and enjoy the live music when we got to the restaurant. Once there, we rehydrated and had some complimentary crab soup. Delicious!

After we were sated, we decided to stroll around town and get a feel for how people lived here. We spent about an hour wandering the neighborhood streets. The people were very friendly and eager to talk with us. The cemeteries here are much less ornate than Mexican ones, but they still show similar tendencies to large crypts with fences and painted facades, if in slightly more somber hues. Everyone seemed to be raising pigs and chickens and geese, with the occasional goat thrown in for good measure. The piglets had basically free reign to wander. It's a wonder anyone knows whose is whose.
Eventually, we found our way back to the waterfront. With the requisite half-dozen pepsis for our friends the navy, we arrived at the end of the pier and headed back out into the bay. This time we had Arthur with us as guide, and as usual, we zoomed ahead of T/T Learnativity. Arthur directed us around a corner of mangroves, and we ducked out of the way to try our hand at ambushing. Unfortunately, it was only well after we'd passed them that we realized that we were way off track. We had a little dinghy pow wow and decided to retrace our steps. Then a couple minutes later, we got a call over the VHF.
Our friend Wayne was having some issues with his outboard losing oil, so we took up their painter and began the long journey back. We tried a couple of times to get up on plane, but even though Shiva can tow a wakeboarder, she can't quite make it happen with another dinghy and nine people total. Darkness fell as we made our way over the last 7 miles back to Barillas. Kira and Julia serenaded us with camp songs and Phillip convinced me to give an a capella rendition of "Black Swan".

It was about 7:30 p.m. when we dropped Wayne and the girls at Learnativity. We were all pooped, but what a great day!!

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Enrichment

The boys have been doing Calvert for almost a year now, and you know, sometimes, it can be kind of dry. Last time we experimented with starting the day with The Writer's Almanac. I'm a big fan, but the boys favor Car Talk over something so mellow.

This time around, we're trying something else, and it may be just the thing. I've been watching the TED talks online for ages, but it never occurred to me that we should introduce the boys to them too.



Burt Rutan see the future of space.


Needless to say, the boys are loving it. Yesterday, we were late starting school because it was market day. Before I'd even finished unpacking groceries, Nicholas came up to remind me that we hadn't watched a TED talk yet. We're trying to give the boys a sampling for now: from caving and outer space to vending machines for crows. We'll see what tickles their fancy.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Shurflo Extreme... Extremely Dead.

Our freshwater pump died. To put this in "home terms" it's like the water company shut off your water. No worries, we carry spares and I had the other pump swapped in quickly and without issue. The spare pump isn't as nice as the computer controlled Shurflo Extreme pump, and only provides 45 psi instead of 60 and cycles on and off while you are showering.

This pump was less than a year old, and under warranty. In the USA we would simply go into the nearest West Marine, and they would swap the pump on the spot. Here in El Salvador it isn't quite so simple. Shipping the pump back to the USA for service and then shipping it back here would cost far in excess of what a new pump costs. The local marine store doesn't stock Shurflo pumps at all- so we cannot simply buy another one locally.

We aren't suffering by any means. We have running water and hot showers aplenty still. If you are going offshore and you are using a Shurflo Extreme water pump you should bring two... actually THREE.

Monday, August 11, 2008

Videos of the boys wakeboarding

Nicholas wakeboards behind the dinghy.




Alexander wakeboards behind the dinghy.


Saturday, August 9, 2008

New Physical Education Tool...

On our latest trip to the USA we were given a wakeboard to bring back with us. What a fun way to get out and enjoy the sea while getting some exercise!

I was worried that our dinghy* would not be able to pull an adult, let alone pull someone while carrying three others. Turns out that our dinghy will pull the heaviest 'boarder (that would be Phillip) while carrying two cheering kids and driver Kelly, no sweat! Pulling up the boys is very easy with only a small amount of power required.

Alexander and Nicholas both tried wakeboarding for the first time today. We are proud to report that they both popped right up and were riding the board right away! Today we were busy driving the boat and giving instruction, we promise photos of the boys riding soon!

Finally, we closed out the day with a sunset ride for Phillip- Alexander filmed with a digital camera and we have uploaded the video. See it here: Wakeboarding behind the dinghy!

We are so happy to be back here and having fun!

* It's not an overpowered dinghy. It's an underpowered towboat!

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Back in Barillas

We're back in El Salvador! It was lovely to see everyone, but it is so good to be home.

The boys return on Friday. We can hardly wait!

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

We saw the "Southern Cross" last night...

Another cruiser pointed out that we could see the Southern Cross in the sky last night. So, we all went down to the dock and looked up into the night sky together.

Now, I have Crosby Stills and Nash playing over and over and over in my head.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Life is good in El Salvador

We're not in Mexico Anymore, Toto...

Samadhi V rests peacefully on her mooring as the tidal current gently pushes past. We are located in a massive estuary, surrounded by lush forests of mangroves. Moving out from the Mangrove forest, there are several volcanoes in the perimeter of our view, covered in dense tropical jungle. We are surrounded by wildlife: Brightly colored birds fly past, and at night, you can hear the shrieks of wild spider monkeys. The water teems with tiny fish as well as barracuda and snapper. There are alligators in the estuary, but we haven't seen any of them yet. Not to worry, we have been assured by everyone we speak with here that the alligators have no interest in people.

It's warm here--not surprising. The temperature hovers around 85 degrees during the day with slightly cooler temps at night. The water is currently 88 degrees here in the estuary.  Very occasionally a brief thunderstorm runs past, bringing 30 minutes of cooling rain before the calm again prevails. Half an hour later, everything is dry again as if the rain had never been here.

The Barillas Marina Club is like a resort. While moored here, we have full access to all of the facilities of the club. The boys have really been enjoying the pool, and I am writing this from the open air clubhouse. The staff here at Barillas have gone out of their way to make us feel welcome, catering to all of our needs and making sure we are comfortable and well taken care of. Security is high. Water-borne patrols cruise the mooring area day and night, and armed men guard at the gate on land.

We are in a beautiful place, but certainly the people of El Salvador are what makes this land special. Everywhere we go, we are greeted warmly with a smile and welcomed graciously. Unlike some of the places we visited in Mexico, tourism hasn't poisoned this region. No cruise ships pause here to disgorge masses of consumers. There are no mega resort developments, no roaming vendors constantly hawking trinkets. Local fisherman paddle past in dugout canoes, still fishing in the same way that people have for eons. When you get here you know that this place is real.

We had the opportunity to visit with wild Spider Monkeys that inhabit the surrounding jungle. One monkey troop has learned to answer to the call of the local people offering bananas! With one of the marina staff as our guide, we walked a short distance (less than a mile) into the jungle behind the marina. Soon we came upon a small series of simple huts where a family lived, this was the house of Miguel. Miguel knows each monkey by name, and it was immediately apparent that they know him! What followed was over an hour of magic, as we fed and played with the monkeys that descended from the trees around us. The spider monkeys were amazingly gentle, and almost caressing in their touch. The monkeys especially delight in dropping down from a convenient tree to steal your hat! One monkey tried to steal Kelly's hair, but was unsuccessful.

We'll be pausing in our cruise here to return to the States for July. After Kelly's birthday in August, we plan to explore inland and take advantage of the wealth of cultural and natural wonders offered by this diverse region. It's hard to imagine a richer way to enrich the boys' curriculum than letting them experience first-hand what most only learn about from books.

Friday, June 20, 2008

We made it to El Salvador!

Our passage South from Mexico was uneventful, with pleasant weather but not much in the way of wind. We arrived off of the bar entrance to Barillas Marina Club this morning at around 4am. We stood offshore until the pilot boat came out to meet us at around 8. After watching a wonderful sunrise and having a relaxing breakfast it was time to challenge the bar. The pilot expertly led us between breakers on both sides, powered by the significant South swell we have been experiencing. Samadhi hit 16 knots surfing on one wave, throwing up a huge wall of spray from each side of the hull! Surfing on a 60,000lb surfboard is certainly a rush!

We are tired, and happy to be sleeping tonight at a snug little mooring in an estuary on the Pacific Coast of El Salvador. We're so glad to be here!

More soon!

Monday, June 16, 2008

In Bahía de Huatulco... leaving for Puerto Madero

We are here for a few hours only. Just long enough to siphon a few gallons of dead dinosaur juice into the starboard tank and wrap up our Mexican immigration/customs paperwork. We are "Checking Out" of Mexico, meaning that we don't plan on stepping ashore until we are in El Salvador. We will top off our fuel tanks one more time in Puerto Madero even if we don't need much fuel as Mexican diesel is a bargain at about $2.40 per gallon.

The weather looks good for our 300 mile passage across the Gulf of Tehuntepec. Hopefully we will avoid any experience with a Tehuntepecer! June is quiet season on the Gulf, so the odds are we will have a smooth passage.

We are not likely to have internet connectivity until we arrive in El Salvador. We will update you once we arrive!

Friday, June 13, 2008

Arrived in Acapulco!

Approaching Acapulco
Approaching Acapulco

After a slow passage, we're tied up at the fuel dock at El Nuevo Club de Yates de Acapulco. We're not sure where we'll berth but we hope to stay here for a day or two for provisioning and bottom cleaning. Our next stop will probably be Bahía de Huatulco. We'll let you know when we're underway again.


Love,

Kelly, Phillip, Alexander, and Nicholas

Boca Chica - Acapulco
Boca Chica - Acapulco

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Acapulco, here we come!

Ahoy mateys!

The weather's taken a turn for the better. We're fueled up and ready to leave the shelter of Las Hadas. Our passage is around 350 miles to Acapulco. We should be there in three days at the outside, probably less.

Until then!

Kelly, Phillip, Alexander, and Nicholas

Monday, June 9, 2008

Next!

We received a shiny new milled bronze clutch lower today and, after not a little work by Phillip, got the beast put back together. The thing of it is, it still won't raise the hook.

Remember what cruising is really about: "Fixing your boat in exotic places".

Rubin, dock master extraordinaire, is going to put in calls to help us find a local shop that can help us troubleshoot further. We should know more after that. At least we won't have to wait for any more shipments from New Zealand!

While we're here, we're making the best of it. Naturally, the boys are taking advantage of our decent Internet access and using it to enrich their Calvert studies. We've been enjoying the lovely beach at Las Hadas and taking occasional trips over the hill for provisioning. Today, while shopping, we took the opportunity to introduce the boys to Dance Dance Revolution.

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Update from Alexander!

Well, I guess this is easier than making a PowerPoint presentation on Madagascar... Lately, I have been working on a presentation about Madagascar with everything from the climate to the land usage to the diet of the people there. It's my third PowerPoint presentation. I've already done ten pages, and that's only half of it!

Yesterday, I completed my latest work of writing, "The Evil Tea Kettle". I think that "The Evil Tea Kettle" was a rare instance where I didn't have to revise my writing much, as I have done more and more of as I write other compositions.

I haven't been fishing nearly as much as Nicholas, and I've only caught one bottom-feeder, though it was just as big as Nicholas's largest one. When we were back in La Cruz, after an unsuccessful fishing trip on the rocks with one of the locals, we walked back to the boat with him, and he took out a large magazine and four lures to divide among me and Nicholas. Unfortunately, after another unsuccessful time fishing off Samadhi here at Las Hadas, I discovered that one of the eyes of my jig was gone.

I finally finished all the Lord of the Rings books, and just today started on Invasion of the Body Snatchers, which Kelly says is awesome. I don't know why, but the third book of The Lord of the Rings just seems really different from all the others.

When we were in Barra de Navidad, we rode for a really long time in the dinghy to get to this big resort, The Grand Bay. It had three mammoth pools, the highest of which had a fast water slide going from it to the next. Anther pool had a second water slide, but it seemed to be targeted towards babies, as it was almost impossible to go fast on. On the fun slide, Nicholas and I invented many wacky ways to go down, like imitating Gandhi or making your own aquarium as you slid down. Even though I don't look very happy in the picture, I'm really having fun.

Wednesday, June 4, 2008

Update from Nicholas!

I'm finally done with my first two compositions of this Unit of Calvert. In the middle, since we've been in Manzanillo, I've caught four bottom feeders with a hint of a puffer fish being hooked, along with a school of colorful stick fish being satisfied with my lure.

While we were in Tenacatita and Barra de Navidad, I caught innumerable minnow-like fish and three very fat brownish fish that I don't know the name of.

I hope I catch more fish!

... and now I am finally sucked in on a book, The Summer Tree, the first of the Fionavar Tapestry. The book is very unusual in some places. I'm still sucked in!

Now, back to my DS!

Monday, June 2, 2008

Spending a few extra days in Manzanillo

The plan was to stop outside of Las Hadas for a day or so and then head over to the port for fuel and checking in/out before anchoring in Bahía de Santiago for a day. Thence, we would undertake our longest leg until Tehuantepec, 190 miles along the coast from Manzanillo to Acapulco. Unfortunately, when we went to raise the anchor, Samadhi let us know that she had different plans.

The anchor windlass is definitely roto. Naturally, our venerable windlass is no longer sold new, so we get to import the new bits from the manufacturer's stock in New Zealand. We found this all out just as their business day was beginning, and Grant was chipper and happy to help.

Thankfully, it looks like they've got everything on hand. Now we just have to figure out how to get it into the country without getting mired in the customs paperwork. Our temporary import permit only works as long as we meet any given package at the airport where it is to clear customs.

We could sail without the windlass. It is possible to raise the anchor using the capstan alone or one of our large primary winches. This is great to know that in a pinch we could get the hook up. Still, we have decided to err on the side of safety and repair the windlass before departing.

We should know more tonight when we hear back from Grant. Then the fun really starts...

Saturday, May 31, 2008

Barra de Navidad


From Tenacatita it was a quick hop down the coast and around the point to Barra de Navidad. We anchored Samadhi off of the village of Melaque which is just North of Barra on the other side of the bay. Melaque was great! We found the most amazing barbecue chicken (cooked over hardwood charcoal "logs")! We also enjoyed some Mexican shaved ice, one of our favorite ways to cool off.

After spending a day touring Melaque, the next morning we headed over to the Barra de Navidad lagoon. We stopped for breakfast at the local French bakery where we enjoyed fresh croissants and other viennoiseries along with coffee. We're not sure why there is a French bakery in Barra, but it was delicious! We poked through the (touristy) shops that line the quaint cobblestone streets but didn't find anything compelling enough to buy.

After touring Barra de Navidad "proper", we headed across the lagoon to the Grand Bay Resort. The Grand Bay has an attached marina that is very well sheltered. This would be a good place to wait out a storm system. Yachts using the marina have full access to all of the facilities of the Grand Bay Resort, including 27 holes of golf, pools, waterslides, etc. etc... We took advantage of the pools and waterslides before heading to the golf course for lunch.

Barra is an extraordinary place, I wish we had more time to stay... but it's time to keep moving South!

Memories of Barra de Navidad

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Tenacatita

We departed La Cruz de Huanacaxtle in the evening. Our late departure was not an accident. We had a date with Cabo Corrientes and its reputation for strong winds and currents demanded respect. Thankfully we had moderate swells of less than 6' and only an hour or two of cross seas. Once we were safely around the cape in the wee hours of the morning, we set our course for Tenacatita.

Tenacatita is a small beachfront settlement on the Costalegre (coast of Jalisco) located about 27 miles northwest of Barra de Navidad. Tenacatita is a wonderful change from the "big city" of Puerto Vallarta. Arriving in the early afternoon, we anchored in a shallow bay, well protectected from the prevailing Northwest winds that blow so steadily here.

We lowered the dinghy into the bay and headed up the river for our "Jungle Tour". The jungle tour (as it is called by cruisers) is a dinghy ride up the river and into a lagoon behind the beach at Tenacatita. The river is narrow and filled with mangroves. In places the mangrove trees grow over the top of the river turning it into a tunnel of lush green vegetation.


We grabbed lunch at one of the beachfront restaurants. Alexander and Nicholas immediately rushed onto the beach to build sand castles. I must say, out of all of the beaches we have been to in Mexico this had the best sand for building castles. Alexander demonstrated this by building a sand pyramid, then picking it up and carrying it around! Nicholas built a "wet sand" tower that was almost a meter high before we called him over lunch!

We stayed in Tenacatita for two days enjoying the quiet (we were the only yacht) and the natural beauty surrounding us.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

¡Hasta luego La Cruz!

We're just now closing up the ports and hatches and doing all the last-minute buttoning up required before putting out to sea. It seems like ages--heck, it has been ages since we last cruised to a new port of call! We can hardly wait.

The boys had a special visitor this afternoon. The lady who runs the business center came by to give the boys farewell gifts! She gave them puzzles and games to keep them entertained on our passage. She's really been wonderful, chatting with the boys while they've studied in the yacht club.

It's strange to have grown so attached to a place that isn't really home. There are so many people here in La Cruz that we'll miss. Still, we're very eager to put out to sea once more and feel that peculiar brand of freedom that cruising on the ocean brings.

Sunday, May 25, 2008

Mas fiestas!

Today we decided to take in some culture. The boys did some Calvert in the morning and then we decided to take a traditional Sunday afternoon drive. First we stopped for delicious bírria tacos in town. Then, bellies full of delicious beef, we headed north to the village of San Pancho.

San Pancho is a small pueblo just north of Sayulita. The locals tell us that Bucerias used to look like this 30 years ago. We had a great time looking at all the Huichol handicrafts and playing on the beach. We came back the long way via Punta de Mita, stopping for fresh pineapple and green coconut.

This evening we had a special treat! To celebrate the end of four days of frolicking, virtuosic flautist Horacio Franco played a gala concert at the amphitheater here at the marina. It was amazing! It was just him and a cellist. They played everything from 14th century medieval to Bach and Vivaldi to Lennon and McCartney.

Now it's time for bed. We're hoping to receive our package from the States tomorrow. After that, we just need to finish getting Samadhi ship-shape, and we can get underway!